I am returning to these islands after three years to satisfy a hunger I’ve had ever since–for the spicy perfume of pale pink caper flowers, for fish that swim in turquoise waters, for sweet cherry tomatoes that explode in your mouth like Stromboli, for pasta with fennel and sardines. I’m returning simply to do nothing–il dolce far niente, as the Italians say –in a place where there are only rocks and sea and the happy prospect of your next meal.