This article originally appeared in the February/March 2024 issue of Dream of Italy. Become a member to access 1,000+ articles like this – designed to help you enjoy an authentic trip to Italy and live your best Italian life!
One hundred and ten years ago, a new father, Alfredo di Lelio, unknowingly created one of the most iconic pasta dishes in the entire world. The recipe was simple and filling, made with ingredients most people have on hand in their kitchen. Flour and eggs became fresh, homemade fettuccine. Alfredo coated the thin, flat, yellow ribbons with a simple sauce of butter and Parmigiano Reggiano.
Alfredo perfected the magic of the “mantecatura” of this pasta sauce. He took the ingredients and mixed the hot pasta with room-temperature butter and cheese in such a way that the sauce became creamy and coated each and every ribbon. Still to this day, you can witness this magical mantecatura live at the historic Rome restaurant Alfredo alla Scrofa when the pasta is cooked for 30 seconds before being tossed in the acclaimed sauce. The person who performs this act—likened by the Alfredo team to a waltz—is called the mantecatore and the rhythmic movements of his fork mixing the pasta on the plate are choreographed to perfection.
In 1920, two movie stars wed in the Eternal City and had a memorable meal. So memorable in fact, that to thank their host, they sent Alfredo a solid gold fork and spoon with their names engraved on them—Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks—tucked in a box addressed to “The King of Fettuccine.” Through word of mouth, this eatery became a favorite of other celebrities like Roman Holiday stars Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck and in recent years 007 star Daniel Craig and famed Italian director Paolo Sorrentino.
Despite the famous clientele, this restaurant feels like a neighborhood spot that hasn’t changed much over the years, living by the adage “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” The restaurant is decorated with wood paneling, framed photos of famous clientele on the wall and clean, crisp white tablecloths. Outside, the piazzetta Alfredo outdoor eating area holds tables on the streets of the historic center of the city. The staff is well-trained and professional, but friendly in their sleek black uniforms.
Undeniably, the VIP pasta is what brought fame to the restaurant, but the rest of the menu is rich. Seasonal dishes are beautifully presented and the a la carte menu reminds visitors that at its very core, Alfredo alla Scrofa serves distinctly Roman cuisine with classic dishes like fried artichokes, amatriciana (pasta with a tomato sauce and guanciale, or pork jowl) and grilled lamb just like every other trattoria romana in the city.
Tasting menus run 80€ and are offered in three themes: meat, seafood or Roma. They each include a starter, two pasta dishes, one secondo (meat or fish) and dessert. All tasting menus include fettuccine Alfredo as one of the two pasta dishes. Cooking classes are also available and include lunch (100€) or dinner (130€) and can be purchased online. (Via della Scrofa, 104/a; +39 0668 806163; www.alfredoallascrofa.com)
—Danielle Abbazia
Photos: Courtesy of Alfredo alla Scrofa