This article originally appeared in the October/November 2020 issue of Dream of Italy. Picture an Italy on high alert. Dread isn’t quite what’s afoot, exactly, but in the major cities—Milan and Rome, in particular—people look suspect. Bodies are quick to stiffen in public spaces. Sirens cry late into the night; carabinieri eyes linger on residents a little bit longer than they’re accustomed to or comfortable with. And glitzy, expensive restaurants with densely seated clients don’t exactly feel like the safest places to…