The Fertility Chair: Miracles in Naples (August 2017)

This article originally appeared in the August 2017 issue of Dream of Italy. Updated 2018. The Spanish quarter of Naples reveals nothing sinister at 7 a.m. Even the o’panar, the buckets that top-floor residents lower down to the street to the fruit and bread vendors, are idly dangling in the thin morning light. The narrow laundry-draped streets were built in in the…