This article appears in the December 2016/January 2017 issue of Dream of Italy. Updated 2018. It’s late afternoon in May, and I’m winding through hills dotted with ginestra in glorious yellow bloom. As we get higher, hawks circle overhead, my ears pop. I’m filled with thoughts of Papa (my grandfather), who was born in this southern region of Basilicata, the instep of Italy’s boot. How bizarre it must…
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