There’s Always Italy: A Chat with Frances Mayes (March 2020)

This article originally appeared in the March 2020 issue of Dream of Italy. One of my favorite things to say is, “no matter what, we always have Italy.” I know my friend Frances Mayes feels the same way, even during these impossibly difficult times as we go to press. Frances is a most calming presence both in person and in her prose. Hopefully …

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Recipe: Carciofi Alla Giudia (February 2020)

This article originally appeared in the February 2020 issue of Dream of Italy. You can find the main article here.  The most challenging part of this recipe is finding artichokes like Rome’s Romaneschi. That is, artichokes without hairy chokes or thorny leaves, that still have their stems. With so many sophisticated small farmers in the USA these days, you may be …

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Rome: Stop and Taste the Artichokes (February 2020)

This article originally appeared in the February 2020 issue of Dream of Italy. “Order carciofi,” is what I tell travelers who ask for advice about Rome. Sure, you can run around oohing and aahing over the Forum, Colosseum, and Sistine Chapel, but for the true Roman experience, you have to stop and taste the artichokes. From late February to early May, …

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New Luggage Service in Rome (December 2019/January 2020)

This article originally appeared in the December 2019/January 2020 issue of Dream of Italy. Join to access the entire issue and over 170 others! A new luggage service Sweet Bag will pick up and deliver travelers’ luggage in Rome, easing the stress and weight that can come with transporting baggage through the cobblestone streets and narrow stairways. Travelers can book the …

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Accessibility: What’s New for Mobility Challenged Travelers in Italy (October 2019)

This article originally appeared in the October 2019 issue of Dream of Italy. Italy’s — and, in particular, Rome’s — cobblestone streets and creaking infrastructures have long been looked upon as minefields for the mobility impaired. But attitudes about what’s possible have been shifting, both at the institutional level and on the ground with individual tour operators. Robert Pardi, business development …

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What’s New in Rome: Turn Plastic Into a Metro Ride (September 2019)

This article originally appeared in the September 2019 issue of Dream of Italy. Both Romans and tourists who use the city’s metro can now save money while helping the planet. Thanks to a new program called Ricicli + Viaggi (Recycle + Travel) launched by the city of Rome this summer, metro riders in Rome can now pay their fares by recycling …

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What’s New in Rome: World’s First Saxophone Museum (September 2019)

This article originally appeared in the September 2019 issue of Dream of Italy. For a novel experience just west of Rome, visit the new saxophone museum this month in the small, coastal town of Maccarese near Fiumicino Airport. The Museo del Saxofono (Saxophone Museum) is the world’s first museum devoted entirely to the woodwind instrument. The museum’s highlight is a variety …

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Masterpieces of Etruscan Art (May 2019)

This article originally appeared in the May 2019 issue of Dream of Italy. Sarcophagus of the Spouses National Etruscan Museum, Villa Giulia, Rome This amazing sarcophagus, the so-called the “Sarcophagus of the Spouses” (sarcofago degli sposi) was discovered during the course of archaeological excavations in 1881 at the Banditaccia necropolis, outside of Cerveteri. The Etruscan Museum at the Villa Giulia in …

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Where to See Etruscan Art: Collections Not to Miss (May 2019)

This article originally appeared in the May 2019 issue of Dream of Italy. On a recent visit to the National Etruscan Museum in Rome at the height of the tourist season, my kids and I arrived at opening time and had the entire museum to ourselves for nearly an hour. What a treat! Across central Italy lie hundreds of little-visited museums …

Marigold: The Micro-Bakery Rome Was Missing

This article originally appeared in the April 2019 issue of Dream of Italy. From the moment I stepped into Marigold Roma, Rome’s new micro-bakery/café/restaurant, I felt like I was visiting the home of a chic, Scandinavian friend with excellent taste in décor. Tucked on a side street in the Ostiense neighborhood, a short walk from Testaccio and the massive, seemingly out-of-place …

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